SIMULATION OF WAVE BEHAVIOUR AND WAVE BREAKING PATTERNS ALONG THE ROCKY BEACH OF TERENGGANU DURING THE MONSOON SEASON

Abstract

Coastal erosion caused by high tides during the monsoon season in the east coast of Malaysia has resulted in devastating property losses and poses a significant threat to the coastal ecosystem. While the deformation of the coastline has become a critical issue, there is a dearth of studies specifically examining the foreshore wave behavior along the rocky beach of Terengganu during the monsoon season. Given the difficulty in predicting high tide monsoon waves, this study aims to simulate wave behavior and wave breaking patterns along the rocky beach during this season. To achieve this, Computational Aided Design (CAD) software will be employed to develop a scale model of Pantai Teluk Bidara, while Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) software will be utilized to simulate wave breaking. The simulation results demonstrate a gradual decrease in velocity as ocean waves approach the rocky shoreline, with notable energy dissipation and turbulence, followed by irregular variations in velocity, a focused wave energy presence, and eventual dissipation as the waves move away from the shoreline. The CFD simulation provided valuable insights into wave behavior and coastal dynamics at Terengganu's rocky shoreline, highlighting wave energy dissipation, irregularities in wave behavior, the presence of focused wave energy, and the importance of understanding these processes for effective coastal management and erosion mitigation. Further research is recommended to validate the findings, explore additional factors, and improve modeling for enhanced coastal management practices.